Lookbook

I decided that I wanted to create a small lookbook for the dress. As I only have one garment, whereas usually clothing designers have a few different pieces, I decided that I would have to fill up the lookbook with other supporting images. I decided that the book should be a kind of ‘diary’ of how the dress came about.

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Rick Owens Lookbook, 2011. I’m interested by the unusual layout style, although I’m not sure if it would work for my own images.

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Ribbon binding found (here)
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String binding found (here) 
I want to keep my lookbook as simple as possible, so I think one large image per page is the best bet.
I started out with some composition ideas for the front cover. I knew I wanted something very simple, white text against a black background.

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As all of my images are mainly portrait, I had to change the orientation of the book.
I decided I wanted a simple, effective monogram of “MM” (memento mori)

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This one was way too simple.

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Although I like this one, it’s perhaps a little too much for the front cover. This is a sketch I scanned in and then lowered the opacity of to make appear grey.

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I chose the Georgia typeface because I already use it for my logo.The letters are simple but really beautifully designed. The monogram is a bit more interesting but still very simple, and the added text gives the viewer more information about the title.

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I was going to add a box around everything but I felt that it didn’t need this – it makes it look too much like a fashion label which was not really what I wanted.

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Back and front cover
I made a list of the kinds of images I wanted to include in the book.

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I looked back through the photos I had already taken and chose a few that I felt were the best shots and also presented the ideas I wanted within my lookbook.
I loved this shot I took in the Horniman museum. I felt it represented my research really well – one of the starting places for me was research and museum trips. I edited the photos a little, trying to see how they might look really dark. I change the hue to a purple-ish colour to match the tones in the dress. I love how the dark black silhouettes look against the purple textured background.
I also edited this image similarly, but this time I reduced the saturation as well. I feel like this stage of my project was equally important – witnessing the decaying of flowers and life and also researching into the specific meanings of flowers which are now extremely important to my project and dress design.
I also found these images I took of some burnt petals. The colours aren’t really right – my design doesn’t feature the colour yellow. I liked the decaying look to them, how they look so fragile.

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I rotated the image to match the orientation of the others, and edited it using the same methods as the Horniman Museum photo. The purplish colours are a really important factor of both the dress and book, which is why I’ve been changing the colour balance of all of my images.
Using the same set up as what I was using to photograph my other two projects, I used my photobox with the black backdrop. I used my macro lense to get some closeup shots of the drawings, and also the cicada on a flower. I used a lamp on one side to give the objects dramatic lighting. I set my camera up on a tripod to maintain steady photos. This set up was very easy but really effective as I managed to get some great shots.

 

Photos of the drawings. I tried to achieve an interesting angle and depth of field – so that the drawing looked more interesting than just the scan. I also wanted to show some of the detail of the pencil lines and marks.
The photograph I chose to use. I picked it because it shows a lot of detail in the drawing, the depth of filed and angle is interesting and I also realised that the pomegranate fruit doesn’t feature anywhere else in the book yet so I needed to include it. I inverted it because the original was so bright it looked odd because all of the other photos are so dark.
Photos of the cicada. These were really difficult to achieve but the depth of field is so interesting.
The photos I chose – the insect was easily distinguishable and the angle and depth of field were really interesting.

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After editing. This one has a more pinkish orange tone, but this isn’t a problem because I know that the dress has a few of these colours on it. I will place this image alongside another one that shares the same colour palette.
I laid the dress down in the photobox to act as draped fabric that occurs so frequently in Vanitas paintings. on top of that I arranged a still life using insects, flowers and vegetables/fruit.
Some of the photos. I had a hard time with this shoot, the beetle wouldn’t stay still and I had to rearrange the display several times. Eventually I took a few photos that I was really pleased with.
After editing. I lowered saturation but didn’t need to change the colour balance as the tones in the objects already match the purples of the dress colours.

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The image I chose. The objects are clear, the composition is really effective. It feels like an old vanitas painting which is what I wanted to accomplish. The print on the fabric is visible but doesn’t take anything away from the objects.
I also took some photos of the dress hanging up against a white wall. I wanted to achieve very strong lighting and shadows on the wall behind the dress. I took the photos from an odd angle because I wanted to make the photos more abstract than just a standard photo of the dress.
Some edits of the photo – altering the saturation and levels to make the photo dark and mysterious.

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I chose this one in the end because the composition is the best – the front view means that you can still tell what the image is of, but the angle is still interesting enough that the photo doesn’t feel boring. The shadows cast by the dress on the wall give the photo a mysterious, etherial feel and also makes the dress feel like it’s moving.
I also took a couple of photos with my macro lens of the detail of the fabric. I wanted to show that the fabric is translucent so I overlapped the fabric slightly to achieve that layered effect.

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I chose this photo because I felt it would work best with the closeup of the cicada insect. The layering shows that the fabric is floaty and the composition is the better one out of the ones I took.

 

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First page – the meaning of memento mori in Georgia typeface to keep things consistent.

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Second page – a photo I took in the Horniman museum, edited to have a faded colour that matched the colouring of the dress.

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Third page – inverted photograph of one of my drawings for the dress.

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Fourth page – one of my reference photos of the flowers, edited to be washed out and darker to match the dress and make it look a little more dramatic.
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Fifth and sixth page – Vanitas style image of my dress as draped fabric, along with some objects depicted on the dress.
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Seventh page – detail of the dress fabric

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Eighth page – close up macro shot of a cicada insect

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Ninth page – petal closeup.
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Tenth page – image of the dress hanging so as to see the detail and shape better.
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